Display "0000"

Store Forums Defusable Clock Bugs/Problems Display "0000"

This topic contains 20 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  Rage 01 5 years, 5 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • #556

    boxseuss
    Member

    I cannot get the device to function. The display just read 0000. Advise? Chip not programmed?

    #1166

    Michael
    Keymaster

    I’m sorry to hear that. Have you checked that all chips are oriented correctly? How about solder connections?

    A display of 0000 could indicate that the chip is not programmed, but I do test each one. Is the colon lit? Is it blinking?

    #1167

    boxseuss
    Member

    The colon is not lit and it is not blinking. Just the 0000 lit solid when powered. It also seems to take a while for the display to light after the transformer is plugged in.

    #1168

    boxseuss
    Member

    I have also checked the ordientation of the chips as well as the connections.

    #1169

    Michael
    Keymaster

    Ok, thanks for that info. If the colon was blinking every second, then we’d know that the chip was simply not programmed with the clock software and was running the default “blink” Arduino sketch.

    If the chip is running the clock software, the colon should be lit. The colon is connected to Arduino ouput pin 13, and it is simply set to HIGH to always keep the colon on.

    How long is the delay between powerup and display? I’d expect about 1 second.
    Can you tell about the power supply you are using? Is it 9V center positive? How many mA can it deliver?

    If we can’t solve this, I’ll certainly replace the product.

    #1170

    boxseuss
    Member

    9v 100ma – I have also tried with a fresh 9v battery. Delay is random, well over a minute. I get 5 volts out of the regulator, but sometimes the display doesn’t light up. Strange.

    #1171

    Michael
    Keymaster

    I don’t think 100mA is enough to power it. The device is drawing too much current, probably 150mA during normal operation. I didn’t even know that there were adapters that only provided 100mA and I will update my instructions to be clear about current requirements.

    A 9V battery isn’t going to deliver enough, either.

    Do you have access to something that can deliver at least 250mA? I sell adapters in my store, and will gladly give you free shipping.

    Sorry about not being clear about the current requirements.

    #1172

    boxseuss
    Member

    Just tried a 500mA – Same issue

    #1173

    Michael
    Keymaster

    Bizarre. Something is very wrong. I will send you an assembled/tested unit (I found your customer record based on your email address) and will also include a return postage label so that you can send back the defective unit. I need to investigate what is wrong, as I have not seen this problem before.

    Sorry about the inconvenience, and thanks for your patience.

    #1174

    boxseuss
    Member

    Thank so much. Please let me know what you find out about unit.

    #1186

    andyskibba
    Member

    I just got mine together and I’m having the same problems, the display reads 0000 without a flashing colon, and the device takes more than a second to power on. Did you ever find a solution to this problem other than replacement?

    #1187

    Michael
    Keymaster

    Andy,
    That’s odd. The 1-2 second delay to power on is normal, but 0000 is not. Can you please check these things and provide some more info:

    1) are all your chips oriented properly? Ensure that the notches are in the right positions. The 74HC595 chip is supposed to have the notch on the right and that makes the text on the chip upside down.
    2) Have you checked your solder joints? If any look suspect you can reflow them by touching them with a soldering iron.
    3) Is the ATmega chip seated securely in the socket?
    4) Can you tell me the details of your power supply? 9V, but how many mA can it provide?
    5) Is the voltage regulator hot? Like, too hot to touch?
    6) Do you have an FTDI cable for programming (if so, you could reprogram the chip using Arduino IDE)?
    7) Got a multimeter?
    8) You aren’t laying the device on a conductive surface and shorting it out, right?
    9) Are you certain you soldered the two large capacitors near the power jack with the right polarity?

    Any info you can give is useful. I have not received the other customer’s unit that is behaving the same way, but I find it odd that two customers have experienced the same problem.

    #1188

    andyskibba
    Member

    @michael wrote:

    Andy,
    That’s odd. The 1-2 second delay to power on is normal, but 0000 is not. Can you please check these things and provide some more info:

    1) are all your chips oriented properly? Ensure that the notches are in the right positions. The 74HC595 chip is supposed to have the notch on the right and that makes the text on the chip upside down.
    The text is upside down, I double checked before soldering.
    2) Have you checked your solder joints? If any look suspect you can reflow them by touching them with a soldering iron.
    Solder joints look good, I don’t see any problems with them.
    3) Is the ATmega chip seated securely in the socket?
    It’s pressed in as far as it will go.
    4) Can you tell me the details of your power supply? 9V, but how many mA can it provide?
    It’s the one you sell in the store, so I’m assuming at least 250mA
    5) Is the voltage regulator hot? Like, too hot to touch?
    It’s not very warm at all.
    6) Do you have an FTDI cable for programming (if so, you could reprogram the chip using Arduino IDE)?
    I thought about getting the cable, but sadly I didn’t buy it.
    7) Got a multimeter?
    Nope, but I could get one if needed.
    8) You aren’t laying the device on a conductive surface and shorting it out, right?
    It’s on my bed curently and as far as I know my sheets aren’t conductive and the problem is persisting.
    9) Are you certain you soldered the two large capacitors near the power jack with the right polarity?
    The grey stripe with the minus sign is to the right side in both, so I believe they are correct.

    Any info you can give is useful. I have not received the other customer’s unit that is behaving the same way, but I find it odd that two customers have experienced the same problem.

    I answered the questions in red.

    #1189

    Michael
    Keymaster

    Thanks, it sounds like you’ve done everything right. I suggest that you reflow the solder joints on the chips. There have been many times when a good joint is in fact not. I’ve had customers return devices claiming the joints were all good, and they aren’t. I’m sure you are good at soldering, but this would be the next thing to check.

    Also, does anything happen when you press the DET button or ALARM+DET?

    Of course I’ll make this all right for you by providing a replacement device asap, but am wondering if you can do just a bit more diagnosis in case it’s just a bad connection.

    #1190

    andyskibba
    Member

    @michael wrote:

    Thanks, it sounds like you’ve done everything right. I suggest that you reflow the solder joints on the chips. There have been many times when a good joint is in fact not. I’ve had customers return devices claiming the joints were all good, and they aren’t. I’m sure you are good at soldering, but this would be the next thing to check.

    Also, does anything happen when you press the DET button or ALARM+DET?

    Of course I’ll make this all right for you by providing a replacement device asap, but am wondering if you can do just a bit more diagnosis in case it’s just a bad connection.

    I will retry soldering all of the chip joints just to double check, but like I said, I’m pretty sure that they’re all good.
    Nothing Happens when I press DET or ALARM+DET

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