[andyskibba]

The replacement Michael sent me works awesome!

I’m using 2 lantern batteries (6V) each to power mine, and so far so good. The voltage regulator’s not getting warm, and it makes for a nice small little package. here’s a crummy webcam pic:

btw yes that’s an Electrical Engineering book underneath, but I’m studying for mechanical.

[andyskibba]

The replacement Michael sent me works awesome!

I’m using 2 lantern batteries (6V) each to power mine, and so far so good. The voltage regulator’s not getting warm, and it makes for a nice small little package. here’s a crummy webcam pic:

btw yes that’s an Electrical Engineering book underneath, but I’m studying for mechanical.

[andyskibba]

@Michael wrote:

Thanks, it sounds like you’ve done everything right. I suggest that you reflow the solder joints on the chips. There have been many times when a good joint is in fact not. I’ve had customers return devices claiming the joints were all good, and they aren’t. I’m sure you are good at soldering, but this would be the next thing to check.

Also, does anything happen when you press the DET button or ALARM+DET?

Of course I’ll make this all right for you by providing a replacement device asap, but am wondering if you can do just a bit more diagnosis in case it’s just a bad connection.

I will retry soldering all of the chip joints just to double check, but like I said, I’m pretty sure that they’re all good.
Nothing Happens when I press DET or ALARM+DET

[andyskibba]

@Michael wrote:

Andy,
That’s odd. The 1-2 second delay to power on is normal, but 0000 is not. Can you please check these things and provide some more info:

1) are all your chips oriented properly? Ensure that the notches are in the right positions. The 74HC595 chip is supposed to have the notch on the right and that makes the text on the chip upside down.
The text is upside down, I double checked before soldering.
2) Have you checked your solder joints? If any look suspect you can reflow them by touching them with a soldering iron.
Solder joints look good, I don’t see any problems with them.
3) Is the ATmega chip seated securely in the socket?
It’s pressed in as far as it will go.
4) Can you tell me the details of your power supply? 9V, but how many mA can it provide?
It’s the one you sell in the store, so I’m assuming at least 250mA
5) Is the voltage regulator hot? Like, too hot to touch?
It’s not very warm at all.
6) Do you have an FTDI cable for programming (if so, you could reprogram the chip using Arduino IDE)?
I thought about getting the cable, but sadly I didn’t buy it.
7) Got a multimeter?
Nope, but I could get one if needed.
8) You aren’t laying the device on a conductive surface and shorting it out, right?
It’s on my bed curently and as far as I know my sheets aren’t conductive and the problem is persisting.
9) Are you certain you soldered the two large capacitors near the power jack with the right polarity?
The grey stripe with the minus sign is to the right side in both, so I believe they are correct.

Any info you can give is useful. I have not received the other customer’s unit that is behaving the same way, but I find it odd that two customers have experienced the same problem.

I answered the questions in red.

[andyskibba]

I just got mine together and I’m having the same problems, the display reads 0000 without a flashing colon, and the device takes more than a second to power on. Did you ever find a solution to this problem other than replacement?

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