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The library is designed to work with the Digit Shield hardware, so if your circuit doesn’t work, then it’s because your circuit/hardware is different from the Digit Shield somehow. How can it be a “software problem”? Obviously the software is working with the Digit Shield — it’s been on the market for almost a year. I’m not sure what you are trying to accomplish with your testing — are you unsure whether the library will work with the Digit Shield? It does!
It’s not possible to display a backwards 6 with a properly connected 74LS247 chip, so I have no idea how that is being displayed. Have you consulted the datasheet?
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/480/337938_DS.pdfAre you changing the value of n in your sketch somewhere? I don’t see any change…
I guess all I can ask is “are you sure you have it wired correctly?” because if you’re using different display hardware, it will have a different pinout… Is it common anode display?
Have you looked at the Toolduino code? It’s all open source. You should be able to easily use a different image and move things around. Processing is a very easy language. See http://processing.org
I’m not sure I understand the question, but yes you can connect a CMOS camera with composite output to the Video Experimenter input.
No, it’s not a normal USB cable. It’s a USB to Serial converter and there’s actually a chip embedded in the cable. That’s why it’s expensive. I’m all out of these at the moment but more are arriving in the next few days.
If you want the same wire to be used for disarm instead of random, that’s a very simple change in the code. Change this:
// assign random pins
defusePin = random(WIRE_1, (WIRE_4+1));
detPin = defusePin;
while (detPin == defusePin) {
detPin = random(WIRE_1, (WIRE_4+1));
}
to this:
detPin = WIRE_1; // or whatever you choose
defusePin = detPin;
// now find a random value for defusePin that is not detPin.
while (defusePin == detPin) {
defusePin = random(WIRE_1, (WIRE_4+1));
}
That’s good news. Sounds like there were some solder mask gaps on your board, sorry about that. I’ve used the same board house for several years on all my products, and have only had a handful of problems (of thousands of boards manufactured). I’ve inspected quite a few boards and only found one case of a ground plane exposed near a pad. Hope you and your son enjoy the clock!
I’m glad you found the short. I think you might be able to fix the digit 3 problem (third digit from left). In the image below I marked the connections associated with that digit. I think one of them has a bad connection. If you reheat each of them, you may just fix the problem.
The PM indicator is only supposed to illuminate when you are actually setting the time (and the time is PM). It does not stay on during normal operation because it’s too bright and annoying. If it lit up during detonation, then the connections are good.
If a multimeter shows that there is a bad trace on the board, then I will gladly replace the kit.
Of course you can buy a new kit from the store if you can’t fix your problem. I have an 11 year old son myself, so I totally know where you’re coming from. ;D My son isn’t interested (yet) in electronics, though!
-Michael
Sorry to hear that. The only idea I have is to carefully check the solder joints marked red in the diagram in this thread:
http://nootropicdesign.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2486
The most likely cause is that one of these joints is shorted against the ground plane (which is the bottom of the board). Several customers have found that problem and fixed it by removing excess solder from one of these joints.
If that doesn’t help, I’m happy to replace the kit. Just keep me informed.
SirNickity, thanks for taking the time to post. The latch isn’t driven by PWM, but both timer1 and timer2 are used by the clock (one to multiplex the display digits, and another for timekeeping), so most PWM pins aren’t usable for PWM. Pins were also chosen for ease of board layout. Good ideas, though!
Wasn’t aware of the low-profile resistors –thx for the info.
Now, I hope you build a cool looking clock for the gallery!
http://nootropicdesign.com/defusableclock/gallery.htmlok, that’s a lot of memory. 128×96 resolution requires 1536 bytes, and there are only 2K on the Arduino. You really only have about 300 bytes to use for the rest of your program (you need to save some for stack). So the display library isn’t really going to work well, unless maybe you use 1 display. You can’t keep the memories separate — there’s just 2K of SRAM in the ATmega328 processor. You might try lower screen resolution, but I haven’t tested the VE image capture with different resolutions. Keep experimenting, and you might get something to work.
