Michael

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Viewing 15 posts - 826 through 840 (of 1,008 total)
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  • in reply to: VCC-GND short #1318
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Yes, I supplied the kits to Maker Shed, so I support them technically. I’m not exactly sure what their policy is regarding replacement, though, so I’d like you to at least ask them whether they replace kits that have defects. They were never clear with me on this policy.

    Since you’re an EE, I assume your soldering is good — I’ve found that the most common cause of failure is horrible soldering. You wouldn’t believe some of the soldering I’ve seen. Backwards socket won’t matter. All my boards undergo electrical testing at the manufacturer, but a defect is still possible I guess. I think the most likely explanation is that a solder joint is shorted against the ground plane (bottom of board).

    If Maker Shed won’t replace the kit and if you can’t find the short, I can replace the board and components you need. Maybe with some close inspection and reheating of solder joints you can find the problem. Would you need all the parts except for the MCU? I need to keep my replacement costs down…

    in reply to: video out to svga lcd monitor…noob question #1299
    Michael
    Keymaster

    You would need some hardware to convert composite video to SVGA. But keep in mind that the composite signal output from the TVout library is not perfect (per the standards) and some of these products won’t work with the TVout signal.

    in reply to: Arduino #1314
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, Laurent. Your project looks wonderful! Great job.

    in reply to: Arduino #1312
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Laurent,

    The default countdown of 10 seconds is defined here:

    #define COUNTDOWN_DURATION 10

    You can change that.

    The buzzer is driven by a 5V PWM square wave.

    in reply to: OSD without LM1881 #1296
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Derek,
    There’s been some work to create a black or gray background for letters using the Video Experimenter. See this thread: http://nootropicdesign.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2363

    I used a MOSFET as well as a 4066 analog switch IC to create a gray/black background on certain lines of the output. The background persists for the entire length of the line, but it was effective.

    The resource you point to is also very interesting. He’s not using a LM1881 and is simply waiting for the long drop in voltage to detect frame boundaries. Nice work.

    in reply to: modification #1294
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Yes, it might be possible to make the countdown go faster. I’ll investigate soon.

    Yes, you can change the countdown time from the default of 10 seconds. Hold the red button, but before releasing the red button, press the hour and min buttons to increase the countdown time.

    in reply to: WProgram.h: No such file or directory #1311
    Michael
    Keymaster

    FYI, I’ve updated all the libraries for Arduino 1.0…

    in reply to: No Alarm beep or action #1317
    Michael
    Keymaster

    No problem at all, it’s a bit confusing. I chose to leave the PM indicator off because it’s so bright and annoying!

    in reply to: No Alarm beep or action #1297
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Does the clock make any noise at all? That is, does it beep when you do the countdown?

    If yes, then we know the buzzer works.

    Are you sure you have the clock and alarm set to the correct AM or PM? That is, if you have the alarm set for 2:00PM, are you sure the clock time is set to PM? Remember that when the clock time is set to PM, the PM indicator light is not on. The PM indicator light is only on when you are setting the time using the hour button.

    in reply to: Is it possible? #1321
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Yes, that should work fine. I have used a power supply of 11.5 volts, and the regulator gets a bit warm, but not too warm to touch. 9.6V will not cause it to get very warm.

    in reply to: no work #1319
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Thank you. I’ll send you an email….

    in reply to: no work #1267
    Michael
    Keymaster

    I am happy to refund your money or send a replacement (assembled/tested). Let me know which you would like.

    in reply to: no work #1265
    Michael
    Keymaster

    The 100uF capacitor may have been defective.

    Now that it is gone, what happens if you connect power? Does the voltage regulator still get hot?

    If your power supply outputs clean 9V, then the capacitor is not really required.

    in reply to: no work #1263
    Michael
    Keymaster

    question: is your power supply center positive? That is, does it have the correct polarity?

    in reply to: Replace LED_TOP with IR LED to control TV ??? #1254
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Perhaps you could do something like that…I haven’t done anything with IR leds before, but you could add the TV B Gone code into the clock code.

Viewing 15 posts - 826 through 840 (of 1,008 total)