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I think you could use an external pot connected to A2. If you make a voltage divider using another resistor, then the resistance of the pot will determine a smaller voltage range.
For example: connect the 5V source to 30K or 40K of resistance, then to the left lead of the pot. The middle lead of the pot goes to A2. The rightmost lead of the pot goes to GND. This way, the full range of the pot will provide 0V – 1V to A2 and this will allow finer adjustment.
I should have designed it this way in the first place.
CecilBush,
Exactly what problem are you having? The previous poster was using the board on a 32×32 matrix (for which it is not designed)…
Is it dead? If so, then you’ve killed it.
Probably damaged the voltage regulator and possibly the microcontroller. If the 100uF cap didn’t blow up, then it might be ok.You reset the microcontroller by pulling the DTR pin low to ground. This is the rightmost pin on the 6-pin FTDI header. It is a green wire on the FTDI cable and is marked “GRN” on the board.
This is what the reset button on an Arduino does. It shorts the ATMega328 reset pin to ground when you press it, and that causes the ATMega to reset.
Yes, you may use pins 0 and 1 (TX and RX) for your project and you will still be able to upload a new sketch on the 6-pin header. You simply won’t be able to do serial communication (using the Arduino Serial library), but you probably aren’t doing that anyway. When you program an Arduino from the IDE, it resets the microcontroller just before uploading the new sketch. So your sketch that uses pins 0 and 1 will not interfere with the ability to load new code onto the chip.
I’m glad to hear that these are working well for your Airsoft games!
The USB port on the Raspberry Pi is at 5V. When you connect a power source to the backpack using a power adapter, that also sets the 5V line on the FTDI cable to 5V. So both the Pi and the backpack are setting this line at 5V, which is fine. No current flows because they are at the same voltage. If you unplug the Raspberry Pi, then there could be current flowing into the Pi, depending on the design of the USB on the Pi, but it probably has a diode in there somewhere. Having all this connected and powered at the same time is fine, but don’t remove power from either the backpack or the Pi.
You can leave the FTDI USB cable connected to the backpack+display ONLY if you are providing 5V power from the power adapter. You can’t power the backpack+display with USB alone (as you found). Make sense?
You need to install the Video Experimenter TVout libary in your Arduino libraries folder. The structure in your sketchbook should be this:
OverlayDemo
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+ OverlayDemo.pde
libraries
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+ TVout
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+ TVoutfonts
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+ pollserialDid you turn the alarm on? The instructions on how to use the clock are documented clearly: http://nootropicdesign.com/defusableclock/index.html#usage
That’s great. This method of decoding CC is really quite a hack and it’s amazing it can work at all, so small adjustments can be necessary. The data is not always clean, and it is sometimes found on different lines depending on the source.
yeah, anyone is welcome to port it to 2.0. It’s not on github at this point (put it on Sourceforge years ago). But by all means pull the code into github and have at it. I got distracted running a hardware business and am probably not going to take this any further due to lack of time.
Using a nunchuk with TVout is very tricky from a timing perspective. You will need to experiment with various delays before and after reading the nunchuk. See the other Hackvision games that use a nunchuk for some guidance. Bottom line: you need to experiment a lot until you get it working.
