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JackSmith, did you connect the wires? If it beeps once and stops then it is “defused”, so you need to connect 4 wires from the left terminal blocks to the right terminal blocks.
Every part adds cost and complexity to a product, so that’s why I didn’t include sockets for those chips. The assembly instructions are very clear about which chip goes where.
No, it can’t because the sync is part of the signal. In overlay mode, the sync comes from the original signal. The Arduino can generate its own sync signal when the switch is set to “sync only”, but that requires a switch movement which I doubt will help in your case. Sorry.
I understand your request. nootropic design can make these modifications for you for a small fee. We don’t have the time to do this for free any more, but we only charge $30 for this work. See this in our store: http://nootropicdesign.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=33
If you buy this custom programming item, I will work with your to ensure you are happy with the code modifications. Do you have a USB to serial adapter cable so that you can load new code onto the clocks? For example: http://nootropicdesign.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=7
I am definitely an expert because I invented the Defusable Clock 😛
The scanning code is only implemented for one resolution.
For i2c communication, yes it might work better if you call tv.end() first. Just try it.
You would need to formulate some algorithm that detects motion. What is motion? Any motion? Any difference in the frame? Keep in mind that the Arduino can only store one frame at a time. If you lower the resolution, you could store two frames and compare them, but what would be your definition of “motion”. A significant change in the number of pixels that are on/off between frames?
It’s not a newbie programming project — you’d need to be experienced with programming.Everything you need is documented here: http://nootropicdesign.com/matrixbackpack/
There is a section at the bottom of the page about programming it. All you need to do is select “Arduino Uno” as the board type. The Serial port selection should be the one for your serial converter cable (or board). The selection on my Arduino IDE for Programmer is “AVRISP mkll”, which is the default.
The pixels are probably because you are using too much memory. There is only 2K in the Arduino, and the frame buffer uses 1.5K. So when you overflow the stack into the video RAM, you see the random pixels. The RTC library is probably using some buffers.
Can you shrink your 32 buffer down to 20 bytes? Also, why use unsigned int for all those time fields, when a byte will do. You can cut your memory usage in half by changing them to byte (except for YEAR, which you need an int).
It’s all about memory. Arduino has very little.
Just keep trying different things. How about slowing down your loop() function with some delay? Or try slower or faster serial speeds.
I’d consider using an analog joystick instead of a nunchuk. I don’t know what your project is, but maybe that will work. Doing video on an Arduino is nothing short of a hack, so it’ amazing that we can get any I2C to work, given the sensitive timing of digital protocols. I have no idea why your timing is different depending on the bits in the frame buffer.
Hmm. That’s odd. The purpose of R4 is to “tune” the precise 680K resistance needed in the circuit for the LM1881 chip. Turning it all the way up adds 100K so 780K.
The LM1881 is a very simple, old, and cheap chip, and it’s sensitive to noise. Maybe the nunchuk is making it act funny, but since you could “tune” away the problem, that’s great.
