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Dudes, that rocks. Hard. Do you call this device “The Burrito”? Hilarious.
Can you send a nice still photograph of this so I can include it in the gallery here:
http://nootropicdesign.com/defusableclock/gallery.htmlI will also embed the video in the gallery.
Also, there are all kinds of modifications that can be made to the defusable clock, like adding lots more LEDs, changing the sound, changing the code itself, etc. I’d be happy to collaborate to help the Airsoft community on these sorts of things. Thx again for sharing your work.
You should try replacing the 595 first. As I think about it more, I believe that is the chip that is damaged. (The 247 might also be damaged)
The 74LS247 chip is almost certainly fried. Perhaps the 74HC595 is also damaged. These chips are not expensive. I’m sure you can get a 74HC595 in France, and maybe the 74LS247. If you want, I can send you replacements if you pay for the shipping ($15 USD). Send an email to me to make arrangements.
Best of luck, my friend. It happens to the best of us. Last weekend I fried a $40 XBee radio by hooking up 9V instead of 3.3V.
I see the problem. You put the chips in the wrong places. The 74HC595 is supposed to be on the left, and the 74LS247 is supposed to be on the right. The chips are not the same! The chip numbers are printed on the silkscreen so that it was clear.
The regulator is hot because the circuit is shorted in the chips. They are probably damaged.
Perhaps you will be able to unsolder the chips with some solder wick. If you have access to a hot air gun, that will be best. Difficult problem….
This is the display:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Avago-Technologies/HDSP-B04E/?qs=pQfy5%252bKCabL91a9uYjyX4Q%3d%3dMost common anode clock displays have the same pinout.
Technically you could drive two displays from a single 74LS247 chip if you keep the current low enough. Each output can sink 40mA. With 150 ohm resistors, the LEDs are using about 20mA. In other words, you’d need at least 150 ohm resistors on each segment of the second display. It would be difficult to wire, also, but you can do it by consulting the Defusable Clock schematic.
Oops, you’re right about the delay line. It’s the tv.delay(1) that introduces the delay. There’s probably not a good way to make it faster without having a lot of flicker. The timing is sensitive.
You could define dx and dy as floats instead of ints and set the values to something like 1.5. But the ball would appear to move at an uneven speed I think.
Sorry, Pong was really intended as a simple demo for paddle usage. Space Invaders and Asteroids are where I really invested a lot of time. There’s also a nice new adventure game “Elventure” on the games page.
It’s true that the library won’t work for Javascript. By “paste into my sketch”, they mean that you might get it to work if you actually include all the library code in your Javascript code. You could try, but if you aren’t a Java/Javascript expert you’ll probably have a hard time solving problems with it. Sorry, the Layers library is lower on my priority list than my hardware business…
Added to the gallery: http://nootropicdesign.com/defusableclock/gallery.html
I wanted to ask a few things: You may have noticed I had to cut an L-shaped out of the plastic covering, this was due to the fact that the Power Jack and the 10uF capacitor stand taller than the DET button and the LED display. There was a space for me to lay the 100uF capacitor on it’s side. I was thinking if I purchase a second one and do a rebuild, do ‘stubbier’ 10uF capacitors exist? Also, would there have been a problem if I soldered the Power Jack on the underside of the PCB? I also would have liked to solder the 4 LEDs leaving more lead so they too stand taller, but was not foresightful enough to do so. They still look great but it would have been awesome to have the rounded tip of the LEDs protruding just slightly from out of the holes in the casing. Would there be an issue if I do this in a rebuild?
Yes, you can certainly make some simple mods that will help you on your next device:
1) The capacitors near the power jack can be mounted on the bottom of the board, as long as you get the polarity correct.
2) The power jack can be mounted on the bottom. The 3rd connector on the side has no electrical connection so you can simply clip it off.
3) You can make the LEDs have long leads – no problem. You could connect long wires to the circuit board and put your LEDs whereever you want. Make sure you get the LED polarity correct.
4) You could also mount a different button and mount it whereever you like. There are large buttons that are really cool, like this: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9336. If you get a different button, wire it to the lower left and upper right contacts for the button on the board.
5) You can also do something with a key switch, but that may require programming changes, so you’d need a programming cable or adapter.Hacking is fun!
Glad to hear it Andy. Hopefully you can send a good quality picture so I can add it to the gallery! Nothing fancy, just some good resolution.
That’s an EPIC build! Very nice. I’ve added this to the gallery
http://nootropicdesign.com/defusableclock/gallery.htmlI also made the images in the forum posts smaller for easier viewing. Thanks for the great pictures!
I finally made the video and it’s up on the games page:
http://nootropicdesign.com/hackvision/games.html
Awesome!
