Michael

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Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 1,008 total)
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  • in reply to: TVOut on Arduino DUE!!! #2385
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Nice job! Very high resolution. I like your cool heads-up display, too.

    in reply to: TVOut on Arduino DUE!!! #2382
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Great job — that’s really high resolution.
    A Video Experimenter for the Due would be a completely different product though. The current Video Experimenter cannot work on the Due because it depends on particular features/pins of the ATmega328. It needs the input capture pin and analog comparator to be on particular pins, which they are not on the Due.

    in reply to: Stopwatch #2380
    Michael
    Keymaster

    I guess I’m not sure what the problem could be, so maybe you could try inverting the logic and see if that changes anything.

    in reply to: Stopwatch #2378
    Michael
    Keymaster

    You might try a 10K resistor and see if that changes things. Or you can invert the logic as stated.

    Are you using a button to provide your input pulses? I guess I assumed you were. The problem with buttons is that they “bounce”. When you press it, the connection bounces a few times, and so some applications need to account for this with compensating logic. Bouncing is going to make it hard to actually measure short pulses.

    When I write logic that uses buttons as input, I usually add a short delay after reading the button to allow it to stabilize.

    delay(20)
    in reply to: Stopwatch #2371
    Michael
    Keymaster

    How do you have your input pin wired? It needs to be tied to ground to keep it low until you connect a 5V signal to it. If this pin is “floating”, then it will randomly read high or low.

    Usually when using an input pin with a button, you set the internal pullup resistor on the pin so that it reads HIGH at all times. Then your button connects the pin to ground. A button press then reads LOW.


    // set internal pullup resistor. Pin now reads HIGH normally.
    pinMode(8, INPUT_PULLUP);

    void loop() {
    // wait until button press
    if (digitalRead(BUTTON) == LOW) {
    ...
    in reply to: PLEASE HELP. Clock wont begin countdown simply shos "0") #2370
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Does the device otherwise function normally? Does your device have normal alarm clock functionality or does it have countdown-only firmware?

    I’m confused about when you say “press the red button again”. The countdown should start when you release the button. Is that what you meant?

    Are you sure you are not touching the back of the circuit board or the chips?

    in reply to: Start Countdown Automatically when powered on #2368
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Just add these lines at the beginning of loop():

    countdownSeconds = defaultCountdownSeconds;
    displayCountdown = true;
    countdown()
    in reply to: Reset wired wrong #2376
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Ah, good catch. I’ll fix the wording on the assembly instructions!

    in reply to: Reset wired wrong #2374
    Michael
    Keymaster

    The explanation is simple. It is not a reset button. It is a button that you can use for input, as documented on the product page: https://nootropicdesign.com/matrixbackpack/

    [attachment=0:1nb7ks5x]button.png[/attachment:1nb7ks5x]

    in reply to: Stacking multiple boards, possible? #2367
    Michael
    Keymaster

    No, I’m afraid each shield would be trying to use the same pins and it just wouldn’t work.

    in reply to: Board/Code resetting #2366
    Michael
    Keymaster

    I would check to make sure that the VCC (5V) and ground pins are not shorted somewhere.
    You can also use the design info as a guide to check your connections: http://nootropicdesign.com/audiohacker/design.html

    in reply to: Overlay texts and graphics too transparent,almost invisible #2373
    Michael
    Keymaster

    That’s great to hear. Have fun!

    in reply to: Overlay texts and graphics too transparent,almost invisible #2365
    Michael
    Keymaster

    You can try increasing the voltage by reducing the resistance of the 330 ohm resistor. Reduce the resistance by adding another resistor in parallel with it. For example, another 330 ohm resistor will give an effective resistance of 165 ohms, and this might make the white brigher. Maybe connect a potentiometer in parallel and experiment to see if you can make it brighter white (but be careful not to completely short the connection across the resistor.

    in reply to: Count #2363
    Michael
    Keymaster

    Yes, I think you could write some code to read the ADC and determine if the buzzer is sounding or not. If the values read from the ADC are significantly away from the silence baseline of 2048, then the buzzer is sounding. If you get a group of readings near 2048, then the sound has stopped. Give it a try.

    in reply to: 32×32? #2361
    Michael
    Keymaster

    To make two backpacks coordinate their display, you would need to use serial communication between them using the 6-pin serial headers on the board. Not the ribbon cable that connects to the panel. This isn’t a simple project so if you don’t have experience with serial communication and significant programming experience then it’s not going to be easy. It’s not a library change. It is changes to the programs running on the backpack boards.

Viewing 15 posts - 241 through 255 (of 1,008 total)