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Michael
KeymasterThat sounds strange but I can’t imagine that it has anything to do with the backpack hardware. The ATmega328 chip has the same Uno bootloader as any Uno-compatible Arduino.
Are you certain that your FTDI cable is genuine and not one of the cheap clones that Sparkfun sells? I quit buying them from Sparkfun because they had a 50% failure rate and Sparkfun refused to believe that was a bad thing.Michael
KeymasterNice job! Very high resolution. I like your cool heads-up display, too.
Michael
KeymasterGreat job — that’s really high resolution.
A Video Experimenter for the Due would be a completely different product though. The current Video Experimenter cannot work on the Due because it depends on particular features/pins of the ATmega328. It needs the input capture pin and analog comparator to be on particular pins, which they are not on the Due.Michael
KeymasterI guess I’m not sure what the problem could be, so maybe you could try inverting the logic and see if that changes anything.
Michael
KeymasterYou might try a 10K resistor and see if that changes things. Or you can invert the logic as stated.
Are you using a button to provide your input pulses? I guess I assumed you were. The problem with buttons is that they “bounce”. When you press it, the connection bounces a few times, and so some applications need to account for this with compensating logic. Bouncing is going to make it hard to actually measure short pulses.
When I write logic that uses buttons as input, I usually add a short delay after reading the button to allow it to stabilize.
delay(20)
Michael
KeymasterHow do you have your input pin wired? It needs to be tied to ground to keep it low until you connect a 5V signal to it. If this pin is “floating”, then it will randomly read high or low.
Usually when using an input pin with a button, you set the internal pullup resistor on the pin so that it reads HIGH at all times. Then your button connects the pin to ground. A button press then reads LOW.
// set internal pullup resistor. Pin now reads HIGH normally.
pinMode(8, INPUT_PULLUP);
void loop() {
// wait until button press
if (digitalRead(BUTTON) == LOW) {
...
December 17, 2015 at 4:06 pm in reply to: PLEASE HELP. Clock wont begin countdown simply shos "0") #2370Michael
KeymasterDoes the device otherwise function normally? Does your device have normal alarm clock functionality or does it have countdown-only firmware?
I’m confused about when you say “press the red button again”. The countdown should start when you release the button. Is that what you meant?
Are you sure you are not touching the back of the circuit board or the chips?
Michael
KeymasterJust add these lines at the beginning of loop():
countdownSeconds = defaultCountdownSeconds;
displayCountdown = true;
countdown()Michael
KeymasterAh, good catch. I’ll fix the wording on the assembly instructions!
Michael
KeymasterThe explanation is simple. It is not a reset button. It is a button that you can use for input, as documented on the product page: https://nootropicdesign.com/matrixbackpack/
[attachment=0:1nb7ks5x]button.png[/attachment:1nb7ks5x]
Michael
KeymasterNo, I’m afraid each shield would be trying to use the same pins and it just wouldn’t work.
Michael
KeymasterI would check to make sure that the VCC (5V) and ground pins are not shorted somewhere.
You can also use the design info as a guide to check your connections: http://nootropicdesign.com/audiohacker/design.htmlNovember 13, 2015 at 1:40 pm in reply to: Overlay texts and graphics too transparent,almost invisible #2373Michael
KeymasterThat’s great to hear. Have fun!
November 6, 2015 at 7:18 pm in reply to: Overlay texts and graphics too transparent,almost invisible #2365Michael
KeymasterYou can try increasing the voltage by reducing the resistance of the 330 ohm resistor. Reduce the resistance by adding another resistor in parallel with it. For example, another 330 ohm resistor will give an effective resistance of 165 ohms, and this might make the white brigher. Maybe connect a potentiometer in parallel and experiment to see if you can make it brighter white (but be careful not to completely short the connection across the resistor.
Michael
KeymasterYes, I think you could write some code to read the ADC and determine if the buzzer is sounding or not. If the values read from the ADC are significantly away from the silence baseline of 2048, then the buzzer is sounding. If you get a group of readings near 2048, then the sound has stopped. Give it a try.
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